Cordovan leather comes from the flat muscle beneath the hide of a horse, it's extraordinarily dense, with fibers packed so tightly that it's almost impossible to crease the way cowhide does. Instead, it develops beautiful rolling folds. Over time, though, layers of old wax, polish, and city grime can build up and dull that incredible depth. A proper deep clean strips everything back and lets the leather's natural character shine through again.
What You'll Need
- Horsehair Cleaning Brush, for initial dusting
- Saphir Cleanser, removes old wax, dirt, and silicone residue
- Saphir Cleaning Cloth, for applying cleanser and cream
- Saphir Renovateur Cream, conditions and prepares the leather
- Saphir Cordovan Cream, the essential nourishing and polishing step
- Horsehair Polishing Brush, for building the shine
- Saphir Polishing Cloth, for the final buff
- Saphir Super Invulner, waterproofing protection to seal everything in
- Shoe trees, to hold the shape while you work
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Remove Laces and Insert Shoe Trees
Pull out your laces and insert shoe trees. The trees smooth out the folds so you can work cream into every crease. If your laces have seen better days, this is the perfect opportunity to browse our collection for a fresh pair to match your newly restored shoes.
2. Brush the Shoes Thoroughly
Use your horsehair cleaning brush to remove all surface dust and loose dirt. Work along the welt seams and into any creases. Starting with a clean surface means the cleanser can focus on the embedded buildup rather than just pushing surface grime around.
3. Clean with Saphir Cleanser
Apply the Cleanser to your cloth and work it across the leather in firm, even strokes. This lifts away old wax, accumulated polish, dirt, and any silicone residue left by other products. You'll likely see the cloth pick up quite a bit of color, that's the old product coming off, not the leather's dye. Change to a fresh area of the cloth frequently so you're always lifting dirt rather than spreading it around.
Note: If your shoes are new or haven't been treated with other products before, you can skip this step entirely.
4. Condition with Renovateur Cream
Once the cleanser has done its work, apply Renovateur Cream in small circular motions across the entire shoe. After stripping away old product, the leather is particularly receptive to conditioning, the Renovateur rehydrates and opens the pores, setting the stage for the cordovan cream to penetrate deeply.
5. Apply Cordovan Cream Generously
This is the heart of the deep clean. Apply Cordovan Cream starting along the sides and welt seams, working in a back-and-forth motion. Then cover the main panels, pressing a little extra into the creases and folds where the leather flexes most. Don't neglect the junction where the upper meets the sole, this area takes constant stress and benefits from thorough nourishment. Let the cream absorb for a few minutes.
6. Polish with the Horsehair Brush
With brisk, light strokes, work the polishing brush across the shoe. The friction warms the wax in the cream and helps it spread into an even, lustrous layer. You should see the shine developing with each pass.
7. Buff to a Mirror Finish
Wrap the polishing cloth around your fingers and buff the entire shoe with gentle circular motions. This final step removes any excess cream and brings the leather to a deep, even glow. On freshly deep-cleaned cordovan, the difference is genuinely striking.
8. Waterproof with Super Invulner
Finish by spraying a light, even coat of Super Invulner from about 25 cm away. Let it dry completely. This seals in all the nourishment you've just applied and adds an invisible barrier against moisture and stains.
Pro Tips
- You don't need to deep clean often, once or twice a year is plenty for most shoes. The weekly care routine handles everything in between.
- Change your cloth area frequently during the cleanser step, a saturated cloth just redistributes old product instead of removing it.
- Want to see the Super Invulner in action? After it dries, pour a few drops of water on the shoe. They'll bead up and roll right off. Satisfying and reassuring.
While you're caring for your shoes, why not treat them to a fresh pair of laces? Browse our full collection to find the perfect match.